02.28 .- 03.18.2010 Argentina - good red wine and steak
reach after our longest flight of the entire trip due to the late start we Buenos Aires with 7 hours delay. Again, we are just amazed with what sovereignty and balance of our three straw-blond girl now the flight master. Flying over the international date line, we all slept in the evening and arrive in Buenos Aires. Hardly in South America, we know already at the airport a tourist trap. We have to take 2 cars in the city, supposedly because only 3 people can sit in the back seat. Since when has South Americans interested in legislation? The regulation is confirmed later, but we have been in any our 20 taxi rides in Argentina again pointed out. And we were never checked. We can not quite believe, but have to give in after some debate. Our Hotel Mansion Dandy Royal is located in the bohemian neighborhood of San Telmo, one of the oldest parts of Buenos Aires. received at the hotel we looking old tango motifs, ornamental extensively the high walls. We easily obtain quickly exhausted our room, the girls sleep soon and we can shortly before midnight, sometimes with a glass of red wine - drink to Ariane's birthday - this time on the other side of the world.
At 9:00 in the morning is the final night. We shy away from our beds, it tango music plays in our room. A little confused, we note that there is a centrally-controlled room with a speaker Tango station. Actually, we would like to sleep a little longer, but we like the tango atmosphere and makes us like a little one on the Argentine lifestyle. At breakfast - spiced with Tango music we get to know the Argentine passion for pastries. Besides coffee, there is often only biscuits, cake and dulce de leche. Of course, the waiter in the restaurant speaks a word of English, with French, English, and our very poor English skills we may achieve our fried eggs.
We can begin the day relaxed and take a little through the streets of San Telmo and Micro Center. Buenos Aires is again a real city with beautiful old houses, churches and narrow streets. The pedestrian zones are dancing tango tourists into effect, repeated here, there is a dispute between our three blondes, which is now a better Tango dancer and what they play now.
The first taste of travel literature in the acclaimed Argentine ice in the Galerias Pacifico - shopping arcade on the Rio Florida is the total failure of all parties involved - just too sweet, even for Erik. The South Americans often look forward to our "Barbie Dolls", but are more modest than Asians, so we relaxed run through the streets. Often, we squeeze ourselves into the small taxes to as much as possible to see from this great city. Taxi driving is too cheap and we use this means of extensively. A small goal by Ariane given us a detailed visit to the zoo, because they wanted to make the girl a long march tasty with the help of the Ganges by lying on the road zoos. Unfortunately, the procedure proposed by us only entrance closed and so did the entire length of the detour around 2 hours than anticipated. The desire of the girls to drive additional cost to the 100 year old carousel, won by a commitment for the next day to visit the museum "malba.
the evening is at Tango dance lesson. Nicole and Alex are all excited with the expectation that their parents now as we float apart across the floor as the Argentinian street dancers. Of course, Ariane wear a dress and their "Klackerschuhe", also pulls extra Antonia in her flower dress. Together with other tourists and a "quota" of Argentina, we bravely us remember by 2.5 hours, but quickly, the little dance of course from teenage times in Intermar Hotel in Bad Segeberg stuck.
the evening we can tango together with some friends and red wine relax on the rooftop terrace of our hotel, the girls once again use the mini pool. It is fun for us, but happy that many people about our family trip and we often take inspiration that goes backpacking with children. On our now 5-month tour, we have heard often and be happy if we have some of the most recent motivate travelers can not do without in the future to such explorations world in spite of children - of course with smaller child-friendly adaptations, such as visits to the zoo, playground or other visit ....
The repeated reference to our hotel, we do not move away from the tourist tracks, we will start our way to La Boca - the old port area of Buenos Aires. Some people travel to La Boca because of the colorful tin huts, evolved from the ship remains of the first Italian and English immigrants, others want to see where Diego Maradona's successful football career started. That evening, the German national team lost their football game 0-1 against Argentina, Maradona is now their coach. Tourism can not. Barely got out of the taxi, we will happily greeted by a self-proclaimed artist who wants to portray a manageable amount for our blonde girl. The picture does not really succeed and if we are honest, we would have on the Zeil in Frankfurt, declined a similar offer with thanks, but we are on vacation. 50 m Ariane receives the first tango dancers with open arms for a photo location and he would not even have money for it.
The roads are framed by colorful tin huts with papier-mache figures on the balconies.
In the next 100 m we can choose between 6 different Argentine specialty restaurants. All offer Parilla - to the typical barbecue Court of Argentina, the English immigrants have left their mark with paella and the Italian sausage pizza is here. Every other restaurant Tango or Flamenco dance is performed by classy-looking couples. With an interested eye Erik notes that many Argentine women are unnatural, almost perfectly shaped bosom, Schönheitschirugen seem to be popular in Argentina.
course there are a Maradona Double, sufficiently frequented by tourists and photographed. Our restaurant selection is made by the girls using the pink shoes tango dancer. We order, of course, Parilla, with respect to our further stay here then Argentina will remain, for the sausage / meat combination hits do not really our taste. Even if it's touristy, we enjoy the atmosphere and let us drift through the 2 manageable road blocks. During our journey we discover the remains of Nike Spraying during the football World Cup 2006.
Back in the city's over the Avenida 9 de Julio, supposedly the widest street in the world with 24 tracks, the obelisk - the symbol of Buenos Aires over and walk back to our hotel.
Our last night we devote another highlight - a tango show. The two older girls are excited and are thinking about what clothes and Klackerschuhe be well this time worn by the dancer. Antonia pulls back her dress. After a good and highly organized three-course menu starts the show. The light goes out. The music begins slowly the curtain rises and the spotlight. Suddenly rings out from the audience area a sharp cry. Little Antonio provides this special situation, as with emerging send five tango dancers and loud music they evidently had not envisaged. After a respite from the shock hidden in Erik's elbow, then follows them as eager as we all these beautiful colorful show. The sometimes very short, very seductive clothes can be with the girls always rise to the concern that you could just see the "briefs" to the dancer, but after a while these thoughts aside and against the "I'm with the red dress-game replaced.
about the actual background of this seductive dance, we let the three in the uncertain to several "Avoid Why / why / why questions. For fast time in this vibrant and lively city is over. Tomorrow I go to the next highlight in Argentina, the Iguazu Waterfalls in the northeast of the country, right on the border with Brazil and Paraguay.
in Puerto Iguazu we live in "Peter Pan", in knall-orange/grün held backpacker holding a 6 bed dormitory for us. It is hot and humid, with joy, the pool house conquered, the flip-flop dug out of a backpack and go to today to Walk the Brazilian side of the falls and to obtain another stamp in our passports. As might be expected, the movement works within minutes and no one even asks us for our overpriced yellow fever vaccination, we had extra in Sydney can make. At the entrance to National Park welcomes us a sign: "The Iguazu waterfalls may belong to Argentina, but the best view of the falls have been from Brazil." The bus brings us to the first stop, the rest we do in bright sun to walk. A more than impressive View the full width of the falls!
will approach A closer clearly the constant force of the water masses , the foam sprayed often several hundred meters. At the end we are directly below the "Garganta del Diablo" and there are endless wet. Antonia slept through a photo montage and as we show her the finished product, she commented on this only with the words: "Mummy is wet." We intended to stay three hours around the falls and enjoy this fantastic spectacle. Back in Puerto Iguazu we accept the recommendation of our taxi driver and end up in a great steak house. A huge outdoor grill, on the masses of steaks, sausages, etc. are fried already. No wonder the Argentine export any meat, because they need everything for the self-sufficiency.
reach after 20 minutes queuing at about 23:00 at the ATM we late and lively red wine from Peter Pan. The next day we explore the Argentine side of the widest waterfall in the world. After entering the park we drive to the delight of the children first with a small tourist train through the jungle to the end of the cases.
From there we go a long walkways and trails to the "Devil's Hole". Here we expect a spectacular view from the top right on the falling edge of the water masses in the depth of 60m. We enjoy the sight and try again to produce a family photo on the five parties kindly smile. Not simply because somehow always bitchy by the women, these glasses is not satisfactory, facial hair, or simply a null Bock on photography.
The wet-humid heat bothers us all something. After a short breather in the shade, we make our way back. A part of the way back we put back by boat and pleasure in many butterflies in all colors. Alexia's favorite is the butterfly with the No. 88th
Now it's time to climb down into the valley, because it follows the true adventures of our current day, a ride under the falls. The two older girls are more nervous, we meet some adventurous, which are soaking wet on the way back. Antonia, who hates himself so the weekly shower, fortunately not quite understand, what's at stake. We get our backpacks and plastic bags for valuables, including our shoes, we stowed in plastic bags. Life jackets are attracted to and then we'll board the boat. To hear us, and we see that with a bang down rushing waterfalls. The tension rises, the boat operator knows how to stir up our excitement.
slowly approached the boat - equipped with a correspondingly strong motor - the cases. Alexia and Nicoletta follow the journey curious, Antonia snuggles prefer to Erik's shoulder and wait. We are still relatively dry come of it, but now it goes to the other side. The passengers yell and scream, the boat operator is on the gas and puts us in the midst of the waterfall. All drip and have great fun, in the heat of a nice refreshment. It is crazy loud, and water comes from all directions. Nicole finds it great, half as Alexia and Antonia is a bit overwhelmed with the situation. After 20 minutes of fun is over, the children's fast some dry clothes, then we take the last little train out of the park down.
Overall we do about this natural game two great days. On the Brazilian side of the photo eye is required, on the Argentine, the adventure a bit satisfied. It is hard to find the right words for this impressive spectacle of nature related to: spectacular, impressive, exciting, fantastic, bombastic.
In the evening we meet in the hostel on a Dutch family with two children and have a nice evening. The children have fun, enjoy both sides to finally meet again on other children and stay on much longer than planned.
The next morning we left early on Peter Pan and make us a little English-speaking driver in the direction Ibera marshes in the region of Corrientes. We believe our ears, we hardly heard in the car, loudly, the old classics of the 70's "Always Sunday comes again, the memory "of Cindy and Bert. Especially for us he has the double CD "hits that we never forget" with him. Extends for kilometers, the route 12 through subtropical forests, along the Rio Parana and the border with Paraguay. After 2 hour drive we arrive at San Ignacio Mini in the region of Misiones, north of Posadas. These ruins tell the story of the Jesuits, who settled around 1696 here. In the peak period lived up to 100.00 natives in the more than 30 missions, where they were brought closer by the Jesuits, the cultivation of corn, the construction of houses and the Gospel.
Because of their independence from the politics are seen as one of the few successful mission movements, they were also his undoing, as the Jesuits supported the indigenous people in the fight against European slave traders. They were eventually banned in 1767 against the English King Carlos III. The history and the ruins are the backdrop for the film "The Mission" with Robert de Niro. An interesting stop-over, rounded on the opposite Cafe by an Argentine breakfast with Mate, Cafe con Leche for once and not too sweet tasting croissants. After a nice chat with the ever in 3 generation from the Alsace-born, but there have been perfect German speaking owner there are even eggs. After further travel, we take the bus terminal of Virasoro nice farewell to the driver and his CD and change to two-wheel-drive jeeps. A second time we have to bow to the "no 4 people in the back seat" and drive with two jeeps through the gene Pampa Colonia Pellegrini. Two more hours of gravel and sand roads with deep ruts, the first time really make a 4 & 4 is necessary.
Huge pastures with prairie grass would pass by us. We see masses of cows and sheep, the only real Gaucho is still missing. The girls ask right to ask if there really are cowboys.
Colonia Pellegrini has settled on wide sandy area about 700 inhabitants, at least half depends on tourism, because this is the gateway to the Ibera marshes, the Everglades of Argentina.
seems The other half of the residents spend the entire day sitting in front of their houses and sworn round her mate tea - a to drink from a silver-plated suction tube from the gourd and pass on - herbal tea blend.
is always and everywhere material drawn from a common vessel, the drink of all. The herbal mixture is continuously re-infused with hot water, here is the Argentine self-sufficient and permanently towed alongside his gourd, a corresponding thermos with him. The resulting infusion through the green Sud Nicoletta elicits the comment: "As with Mimi and grandpa on the pond, when the whole Entenpuh swimming around there, "a not entirely false observation. Nevertheless, try Nicoletta, Erik and Ariane the drink now and then, with moderate enthusiasm.
In Colonia Pellegrini Irupé we live in the Lodge - a luxurious rustic lodge with pool and direct view of lake and wetland. Over a small bridge leading right to the small boats with which to do the safaris through the swamp. From the first reconnaissance mission we discover directly under the bridge a small alligator, the first water pigs graze on the banks.
a contemplative tour with two discarded Gauchopferden on a rickety coach shows us the highlights of the village. From Asia, we are already accustomed to other villages, but there is not much to see. Just wide sandy paths lead through the village, past flat, more or less well preserved houses. The power station is operated from a discarded truck trailer. Time and again we pass Mate drinking small groups, sitting outside their houses.
on the boat safaris, we see lots of capybaras, alligators and many different bird cattle.
particular highlight is the night safari with a large spotlight. Red glimmer in the eyes of alligators, which we can already see far. Antonia's comments have now become much more professional. Was it only in Namibia, "because Mom Photo", your comment is now at the sight of a sleeping pig water: "Who looks nothing at all!".
have also improved their eating habits. The eat with a fork works very well and to request from Erik to get in but on his knees so that it is better to the table, she expresses with timid, slightly reproachful voice: "I kneel 'but that." Also takes them longer and participate more in the itinerary planning, asks "where we are today and where would we eat?" and notes "we have to get the new car still" are not uncommon. For a long time we meet in the Lodge also Irupé again on Studiosus friends. A small, very nice group, full of enthusiasm on our 6-month trip looks. The drive back to civilization we enter this time in only a 4 & 4, the nice "Managing Editor" gives us a lift. And finally meets the first Ariane Gaucho. So it's true: they are usually traveling alone and only with their dogs, they often ride barefoot or wear thick spores. The riding equipment has little to do with our European.
Fortunately, we are for once left on time, so that even a transmission loss can not fall into stress. At this point, fortunately, the cell phone reception, Alejandro directly organized a pick-up so that we come with a 30-minute wait at the roadside rest of it and reach the airport in good time Posada to fly from there to Buenos Aires to Trelew.
We have about 6 hours stay in BA and use the time to once again take in this diverse city. Ua is a visit to the cemetery of Recoleta on the agenda - here we have to admit, the inspiration of our new Studiosus acquaintances who raved about so excited about it. And indeed, this cemetery is worth a visit, to put our travel reading "Wall Street of the adulation." There are around Romanesque and Gothic cathedrals and mini monuments and heroes vie for the favor of morbid death culture.
There is a road map specially for the alleged 6500 family tombs with an average of 15 skeletons. Of course we are looking at the grave of Evita. If, like Erik in Memphis to Elvis Presley's grave is a pilgrimage, it must also see the grave of Evita in BA. It is not very pompous, but with the Most fresh flowers and provided many visitors. Also, Antonia moved reverently through this city of the dead and commented on a spacious grand tomb with the words: ". The man is asleep so the raised bed"
That this man Manual Quintana said, and once President of Argentina was to be We tell her later. Otherwise, they really only interested in ensuring that their full diaper is changed as soon. Once again we take the opportunity to take us a break in one of the many cafes of BA. What one Porteno / a (Inhabitants of BA) are football field, is the other its café. "London City" - the cafe where Julio Cortazar wrote his first novel, is our goal. After all, for over 50 years, is café con leche, café Cortado (espresso with a dash of milk) or Torre Facto (with black burnt sugar) are served. For the girls there's a chocolate Calfriede and for us befitting Café con Leche. As it is in Argentinean cafés, we take our time and enjoy the atmosphere. Once again, we discuss our list of ideas for life after our trip, because all too quickly moves closer to the end, unfortunately.
the evening our plane goes by Aerolineas Argentinas to Trelew on time, the next stop on our journey through the land of climatic extremes. In the morning, still a tropical climate in the swamps, we now receive in Patagonia, a cool, strong evening wind. To our great sorrow our package with the warm fleece jackets for children and all 'our hiking boots, which we sent by mail in January from Laos to Buenos Aires was still not arrived. Now we need the stuff actually, let's see if we buy more here in Northern Patagonia already have or whether we do it with the onion to the principle of duty-free city of Ushuaia. Landing and baggage claim at the small airport instead of going quickly from, here is strictly in Patagonia, the "travel ban" of fruit, etc. Food controls to keep plant Krankeitserreger from the region. On "Avis switch" will be waiting happily, the small car loaded and put away all backpacks comfortable. At night very heavy fog and we start our car ride - since long time with legal transactions gene Peninsula Valdés, another of the 34 National Parks of Argentina. Since we misjudged us in the distance measuring something had and continue despite contrary advice from the guide at night, we arrive until midnight Puerto Piramides. The only village in the national park, with 250 inhabitants, plus 400-600 whales in June and July. Sand blowing across the road, not much is happening at this time. be "Estancia de Sol" is our starting point at which we knock after a brief warm welcomes from an older lady in Nachtnegligee. The girls get all of 'which nothing can be taken to sleeping in their beds.
As agreed If we closed the next morning for breakfast, to the delight of our host all awake. As already seen in the night, speaking our very open-acting host no English and we do not really English. This is common: a destination on our list is to learn English. For Argentine conditions this breakfast look large, in addition to the classic croissant and café con leche, we get another bread, Joghurtmixgetränk and even a fried egg.
Strengthened we go on a first reconnaissance mission of this straightforward site: Compared to a rusty playground, which is quickly occupied by the girls and explained to the bakery. The supermarket next door sells diapers and super single baguette and salami. Central to this Einstraßenortes is the gas station next door has some tourist agencies, all eagerly await the whales and the increasing number of tourists.
the moment it is quite windy. We make our way to our Ford Focus over a long dirt roads and along the rugged coast to explore the southern part of the park, while seeing a lot of seals / sea lions and penguins, and try to Alexia and Nicoletta using real examples to explain the concept of "fossils".
As the writers of our readers know, is playing this Pensinsula coast of the Valdes, among other prominent landscape features of Patagonia, including "The Little Prince" by Antoine de St. Exupery an important Role. The dinner's are the only hotel at the site, accessible through the sea.
Today it is temporarily out of bed, because the good man at the tourist office believe bestowing it sounds so that the Orca püntklich appear at 9.00 on the beach at Punta Norte, to take her breakfast. With perfect weather, we are at 9.10 clock on the beach, but it can be seen far and wide, not Orca. The small harbor seals play and run around completely clueless on the beach and do not know how good they have it straight, while above in the coast various bloodthirsty tourists to wait until after the theme of "survival of fittest" running spectacle, which make the Orca on the hunt for the seals. We wait and wait, the girls begin to build castles in the nature reserve and start from the friendly ranger soon be a reprimand. After nearly 2 hours in beautiful sunshine, we make our way back. Later we learn that the chance of seeing Orca, is 3% and many locals this supposedly globally unique spectacle never have seen. As a small compensation we are running in the parking lot at least another "Pichy" - a kind of armadillo on the road.
The return journey takes us along the dusty road through the Patagonian steppe directly back to Trelew.
On the way, we pass again and again by the roadside "memorials" with red flags. Often stand around flowers or bottles of various, sometimes even burn a candle in the wind-only "box". Together with the girls we speculate about the reason for these monuments.
The Lonely Planet gives the Enlightenment. Gaucho Gil is behind it, a Gaucho from the earlier years, the cattle stole from the rich and the meat with the poor, said to her at some point was taken - the Argentinian mixture of Robin Hood and St. Martin.
Having seen enough penguins, we use the last hours before departure and go to Trelew, an otherwise offered little place in the Museo Paleontològico Egidio Feruglio. The museum presents an impressive collection of life-size dinosaurs whose bones are all from Patagonia. Other hand, is also lowering mountain museum does not. Antonia are the large skeletons not so haunted, but Nicole and Alex likes it very much, it made a lot of photos. On the way back to the airport is still time for a trip to Gaiman, a relic from the Welsh past in Argentina. A short chips, juice, and gather sticks for breath, according to the sign and through visits to Lady Diana confirmed largest Teepot the southern hemisphere, then we drive to the airport quickly.
The southernmost goal of our entire trip, Ushuaia is located in the Argentinean part of Tierra del Fuego. Ushuaia marketed perfectly as the southernmost city in the world, not entirely wrong, because walking is no longer one. By boat, it can go to brave prices further in the Antarctic only whole 1000km of southern continent away - is that its 60,000 inhabitants originally directly from a prison camp for felons resulting city on the Beagle Channel and forms the border with Chile's Tierra del Fuego . After all, Ariane said the city nor the geography teaching something. Our lovely host of the "Familia Piatti B & B" brings us at the airport, outside it is for us who have been almost 6 months nearly only lived in warm climes, remarkably cool. Our onion principle is no longer enough. The two rooms in the quaint wooden house in the woods are heated cozy and nice as we can borrow for the girls some warm clothes, we want to strike on Monday in the duty-free paradise.
The trip across the Beagle Channel is a MUST. We have an extremely nice and smart travel companion who shares her extensive knowledge of flora, fauna and history all around us like Patagonia. On this trip we are also informed that Ushuaia and the Lighthouse is not the southernmost city in the world.
But the Argentines were simply regarding marketing a little smarter than the Chileans, the Port Williams, together with the lighthouse on the other side of the Beagle Channel is obviously south. Our subsequent purchase is successful, all now equipped with hiking boots and flowing sweater. Actually, as a visit to the Antarctic Nothing in the way now.
The next day we go into it with an old steam locomotive in the National Park to the southernmost tip of Patagonia and it is this southernmost tourist train in the world.
Then there is the southernmost lake in the world where we can blow us the stormy Patagonian wind in your ears and enjoy the rugged scenery and discover the southernmost church in the world.
order the license, "visitors to the southernmost city the world to have fully met, we get the tourist office to visit temples in our passport. And it also means to pack bags again and take leave of our cheerful and friendly owner, house, kids and B & B rooms with two double throws, while his wife serves as a psychologist various Argentine Psycho cases.
It goes on to El Calafate - the gateway to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. We hope for great weather to the Perito Moreno, to see one of the largest glacier in Argentina and I hope to experience the natural wonder of how blocks of ice falling into the upstream lake. El Calafate reminds us a bit of Pokhara in Nepal, only because the roads were tarred all. On the main road to go from tour operator with souvenir shops - but the barbers are missing. In addition, there is a playground of the last century, where we meet a very nice French family from Lille, who, with their two children for 10 months on a world tour and use the program of the French government of homeschooling. In good Argentinean red wine and Patagonian lamb we simple way with "like minded" about the pros and cons the long-term travel with children. Their adventures together time is coming to the end.
We agree: a great time, the family welded together and offers many wonderful experiences together. Of course there are days on which the group pays Koller, but on the whole it is surprisingly easy.
We are lucky, the next morning not a cloud in the sky shows. Hardly in the VW Polo out of El Calafate, we have the vast Patagonian steppe again. Especially with Nicoletta increases the excitement is coming from the glaciers and she hopes heavily on the blocks of ice that break away from the glacier - just as advertising has shown her. Hopefully it will not be disappointed ... And as we see it shining through the mountains, nor a hill and then he raised on the horizon before us is: the Perito Moreno! The blue sky and blue water as make a great contrast to the glacier.
The next few hours we walk in the warm sun along the glacier and waiting for the moment. Nicole has the most patience and successful: with a loud roar is released from a 60 m block of ice and thunder into the steel-blue water down. We are all so impressed that we abandon the boat ride that would have brought us even closer. The return trip is evenly, the girls sleep in the back, Erik uses just the chance for a fall PowerNap and Ariane directs the Polo sovereignty over the gravel roads, enjoying the quiet and the setting sun.
This is our time in Argentina already over. To develop this country really, it had much more time and requires particular knowledge of English. It has made us a lot of fun in Buenos Aires, we would like to live again, the nature of the country is impressive. Argentina has also become one - including and especially children - have been good to clean up a country's relatively cheap hostel with beds for about € 10, -/night and car rental for € 40, -/day. The steak is cheap, the wine superb and varied, many reasons to come here again. Perhaps, there is still so much to see in the world.
Now we make our way to travel by bus across the Andes to Chile, Puerto Natales is the next target.
is otherwise not much going on here. Slightly disappointed if the bad weather we go next Day after we get in the small restaurant around the corner again good lunch for 5 people for a whole 10 € back to Puerto Montt to fly into every now and then shaking Santiago de Chile. Right on time the plane takes off and just in time we land in the "war zone". The airport is well organized, arrivals, baggage claim, etc. will either outdoors or in tents instead. Direct exit from the runway, we quickly the airport to the rooftop terrace of the Casart "- to enjoy our dinner with red wine, yogurt, cheese and salami - a block away from the Plazza de Armas in the center. On the way gene Florida and we have only 24 hours to Santiago explore. With a hop-on hop-off bus and we get a brief overview of the city, some museums are closed because of damage by the earthquake, otherwise seems in the city nearly three weeks after the earthquake, despite various aftershocks everything to run smoothly again. 
